Commission Essay/ Waste `Fashion`
Through my research stage, I learnt and understood numerous issues related to the theme `waste`. We tend to think of waste as something we no longer want. Over the years I believe we have become so used to putting our "waste" out for someone else to deal with, that we have become a throwaway society. However, there is now a realisation, that dumping items we no longer want into landfill sites is not a sustainable option, not only because it's environmentally unsound, but also because we are simply running out of holes in the ground. How to dispose of the ever-increasing amount of waste we generate has become a huge problem and we are now under enormous pressure to minimise what goes into landfill. I think every single one of us; can help make a difference if we take some responsibility for the waste that we produce.
After analysing and taking carful thought, I believe the context of my work belongs in is a fashion journal. When viewing my project I wanted to take a risk and progress vintage couture to a higher level. I wanted my work to resemble a striking display, deconstructing, re-cutting and completely transforming people’s perception of second-hand clothing or recyclable material, and create ethical fashion with a sense of right and wrong?
My main inspiration for my shoot was the Vogue UK November 2009 issue “Make, Do and Mend”. The editorial was based on, how to NOT spend too much on expensive clothes during the global crisis? But the editorial choices made me think, how i could portray my narrative through camera?
For my shot, I wanted to use an eye level camera angle. From using this type of angle, I was able to highlight a fairly neutral shot, positioned as though it is a human observing a scene. By portraying this, I was also able to focus onto the model yet leave plenty of background to establish the models character.
When choosing my focal length, i did some research on different types of lenses, and learnt, that if I chose a standard lens it would make the image in the photo appear in perspective similar to the original scene. By using a 90mm standard lens I was able to achieve a wide aperture, which was perfect for my shoot I 'm glad I chose a 90mm standard, as when viewing the final image's, I thought it helped focus attention on the subject, rather than distracting the viewer with an unusually distorted image, and was great for including some surrounding to put the subject in context. I also thought when viewing my final prints the images show a comparison towards the recyclable fashion magazines I researched as a lot of the covers used a similar type of lens allowing the model to be seen capturing the chosen narrative of the story.
For my shoot I decided to use a simple lighting plan, as when researching I learn a lot of fashion advertising campaigns use this technique a lot. Before my shoot I looked into different light sources, but in the end decided to use a medium size soft box. From previous workshops in the year I leant, soft boxes work by confining the light from a lamp into a closed chamber and releasing it through at least one layer of diffusion material. I also learnt, the larger the light source, in relation to the subject, the softer the light becomes, which was useful when deciding what size to use for my shoot. When viewing the contact sheets I noticed that this piece of lighting equipment enabled, light to pass through the translucent fabric and scatter, producing a very even
and soft result. Perfect when comparing and incorporating similar approaches to fashion advertising shoots. From using this type of light, I thought it worked well as a fill light, as it didn’t cast harsh shadows. I think overall, the large soft box covered the entire subject with light allowing a softer light and softened edges of shadows.
When evaluating my schedule, or how i spend my time, I always try and consider my goals and priorities. Attending lectures and seminars and completing assignments is a top priority for me, as I believe this helps towards my studies. I also try and create a work area that is free from distractions and commit to staying there for at least one to two hours, if for whatever reason I get side-tracked, I remind myself how this task will help me to meet my goals. Prioritizing is another aspect I try and consider: What has to be done first? When is it due? This helps organise my weekly schedule in order to succeed my goals.
Whilst setting up equipment for my shoot, I realised the backdrop I had chosen was cut short due to marks. Unfortunately due to the models schedule and the shop opening times, I was not able replenish a second roll. As a result of this problem I had no choice, other than to continue and shoot. Whilst I was aware of the effects this could cause, the shoot had to go ahead due the models commitments. Reflecting on this situation, I think I could have improved by either shooting at shop opening hours, or by making sure my model would be available for a longer period of time.
Making the costumes was a significant challenge to me, as I had never created something of this nature before, and was totally blind to the development of how these designs would finally be seen. Having not produced any designs from recyclable material, it was very much trial and error, as no patterns can be obtained for this type of design. To overcome this in the future, I could have asked fashion promotion for advice or consider making the garments, as this would have allowed more time of the photography process of the project. However I was more than happy with the final product, as I felt not only had I achieved in the photographic process but also in the manufacturing of the product.
My selection of model became a un-for-seen problem. Due to the age group I selected, my particular model was still attending full time education, and became difficult as the importance of the final shoot had to be of good quality, as the availability of the model was limited. This problem could be solved in the future, by checking availability not only for the final shoot but of the models schedule as well.
The printing process I found enjoyable yet a challenge. After observing my final prints, I realised they carried imperfections of shadowing and over-exposed areas. Due to these problems I was given helpful advise on how to resolve the situation by increasing time and learning a new technique called `burning`. Having completed the process, I felt more than satisfied. Whilst at the time I felt my first prints were acceptable for the task, when observing my re-prints I can identify a noticeable improvement, and was glad receiving the advise as lessons and techniques have now been learnt.
